If You Like Frittatas, You will Love This Herb-Packed Persian Egg Recipe

Kookoos are a preferred and huge class of Persian egg-centric dishes, essentially the most well-known of which is the herb-packed selection kookoo-sabzi that I am sharing my recipe for right here. Whereas it is perhaps tempting to say that kookoos are the Persian model of well-known Western egg-centric dishes comparable to souffle, omelette, frittata, and quiche, these phrases don’t adequately describe the character of Persian kookoos.

In contrast to souffles, kookoos don’t fall. In contrast to quiches, kookoos should not have a crust. In contrast to omelettes, kookoos aren’t folded or rolled and are a lot thicker than the standard omelette. The combination-ins of kookoos are chopped into a lot smaller items than these of typical frittatas and a few kookoo mix-ins are even mashed. Subsequently, the easiest way to consult with this class of Persian egg-centric dishes is just what Persians and Iranians name it: kookoo. 

There’s all kinds of kookoos within the Persian cookery panorama: They are often made with totally different members of the allium household (onions, garlic, chives, leeks), totally different greens (eggplant, zucchini, celery, inexperienced beans, fava beans, beets, spinach), totally different starchy root greens (potatoes, candy potatoes, yams), and even contemporary unripe inexperienced almonds.

The phrase sabzi means inexperienced herbs, and a kookoo-sabzi is full of contemporary, inexperienced herbs like cilantro, parsley, and dill. They’re finely minced together with fragrant alliums such a Persian leaks, chives, or scallion greens. Whereas most kookoos are vegetarian, there are some meat-based kookoos the place finely minced lamb, beef, poultry, or seafood is included, together with a number of greens. 

Regardless of the selection, the kookoo elements are totally combined with whisked eggs, properly seasoned, and cooked on the stovetop till the outside is frivolously browned on either side and the egg combination is agency. A completed kookoo is usually an inch- to an inch and a half–thick disc that is sliced and served in wedges. Versatile and various, kookoos might be loved scorching or chilly, as a primary course, facet dish, snack, and even as a sandwich. They’re excellent for consuming at residence or taking alongside to potlucks and picnics.

The Etymology, Historical past, and Custom of Kookoos

The earliest recognized references to kookoos within the Persian culinary panorama are within the two oldest surviving Persian cookbooks from the sixteenth century. The truth that kookoos are referred to in each of those cookbooks is a sign that they have been well-known within the space that’s now Iran throughout that timeframe.

A number of food historians and culinary writers, together with Alan Davidson, Editor of The Oxford Companion to Meals, and Heather Arndt Anderson, creator of Breakfast: A Historical past, inform us that the earliest omelettes are thought to have been cooked within the historic Persian and Arab worlds. Kookoos can then be thought-about as an evolution of these early omelettes. The idea of those early omelettes seems to have moved all through the Center East and North Africa earlier than reaching Europe, morphing into such culinary delights because the Spanish tortilla and Italian frittata. 

The closest comparability to kookoo in different meals cultures is probably going the tortilla de patatas (or tortilla Española), a well-known Spanish egg and potato dish. However though the cooking method (together with the flipping half) and the thickness of those two egg dishes are comparable, the remainder of it (significantly the scale and number of mix-ins) may be very totally different. It must also be famous that in modern Center Japanese cookery—significantly in Egypt—there’s a comparable class of dishes referred to as eggah.

Kookoo-sabzis originated from Azari communities in northwestern Iran, not shocking as kookoo-sabzi can also be common within the nation of Azerbaijan—the northeastern neighbor of Iran. Lately, kookoo-sabzi is common throughout all the nation of Iran in addition to within the Iranian diaspora around the globe.

One cause for kookoo-sabzi’s fame and recognition is that it is likely one of the key components of crucial meal throughout Nowruz, the Persian New 12 months celebrations. On this meal, herb-flavored steamed rice–known as sabzi-polow–is accompanied by wedges of kookoo-sabzi and pan-fried fish. As well as, kookoo-sabzi is a vital a part of Christmas and Easter meals for Iranian Armenians.

Key Substances in an Herb Kookoo

Herbs: Herbs play a essential position in Persian cookery as they’re used throughout all sorts of savory dishes. Kookoo-sabzi makes use of a number of totally different herbs. In relation to the combination of contemporary herbs, kookoo-sabzi may be very forgiving. So long as you might have a complete of about 15 ounces (400g) of combined chopped contemporary parsley, cilantro, dill, and leek, per eight eggs, you should have a profitable kookoo-sabzi. 

Persian Leek: Persian leek (Allium ampeloprasum ssp. persicum) is a cultivated allium native to the Center East and Iran. It has a light oniony taste and is eaten each uncooked and cooked in a variety of Persian dishes. It’s known as tareh in Persian. It resembles the highest half of frequent leek in look (folded flat linear leaf sheaths) however is way thinner, smaller, and extra delicate.

Persian leek is usually incorrectly labeled garlic chives or spring onions however is totally different from these crops. Persian leeks are used, together with different herbs, in conventional Persian soups, meat braises, meat dumplings, and stuffed greens. Recent Persian leeks are low-cost and are sometimes obtainable year-round in specialty Persian, Afghani, and Center Japanese markets. Should you should not have entry to those specialty markets, you’ll be able to simply substitute an equal quantity by weight of the inexperienced components of scallions, chives, and even the center third part of standard frequent leeks.

Whereas diced dried Persian leeks are generally obtainable in Persian, Afghani, and Center Japanese markets, their taste suffers drastically when dried. If contemporary leeks are unavailable, go for the contemporary substitutes talked about within the recipe reasonably than dried Persian leeks. Chopped contemporary Persian leeks are very freezer pleasant. When they’re obtainable, I at all times purchase a big amount, chop them finely, and freeze them in one-cup parts in freezer baggage.

Fenugreek: Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) is an annual plant. Its leaves include three obovate leaflets (teardrop-shaped with stems connected to the tapering finish). Its leaves (contemporary or dried) have been used as an herb and its seeds as a spice since historic occasions.

Recent fenugreek leaves are barely bitter, however as soon as cooked, they tackle a delicate bittersweet taste and a uniquely pleasing aroma that fills the kitchen–usually lingering for days. It’s the herb that defines not solely this well-known Persian kookoo but in addition essentially the most well-known Persian braised meat dish, ghormeh-sabzi.

Recent fenugreek turns into obtainable for a brief interval between late spring and midsummer. It is vitally tough to search out contemporary fenugreek in North America or Europe. Some specialty Persian, Afghani, or Indian markets could carry it throughout its brief rising season. Nonetheless, virtually talking, all Persian residence cooks use dried crushed fenugreek leaves for this dish, and so do you have to. 

It’s a highly effective dried herb, so a small quantity goes a good distance. Dried crushed fenugreek leaves are available within the spice part of many properly stocked supermarkets, and in all specialty Center Japanese, Mediterranean, and Indian markets, in addition to by a wide range of on-line spice markets comparable to Penzeys, Kalustyan’s, and The Spice House. Please notice that this dish makes use of fenugreek leaves, not fenugreek seed, which is a well-liked spice in Indian cookery.

Dried Barberry: Barberries (berberis) are the tiny, shiny crimson fruit of a spiny shrub. Wealthy in vitamin C and pectin, they’ve a pleasing tangy taste. In Persian cookery, barberries are used broadly as a souring agent in rice dishes, braises, and egg-centric dishes, the place they supply sensible dots of vivid crimson in addition to bursts of intense taste. In contrast to crushed dried fenugreek leaves, dried barberries are carried by only a few neighborhood grocery shops within the West. Nonetheless, they’re available in all specialty Center Japanese and Mediterranean markets, or for on-line buy.

Should you’re unfamiliar with barberries, I like to recommend you get to know them. They’re exhibiting up an increasing number of in common culinary writings and recipes. I’m sure that barberries will quickly turn out to be the subsequent za’atar, the subsequent sumac, or the subsequent pomegranate molasses.

Each crushed dried fenugreek leaves and dried barberries are additionally obtainable by on-line shops specializing in Persian elements, comparable to Kalamala Persian Grocery, Sadaf, Persian Basket, and Tavazo—and naturally on Amazon.com. 

Strategies for Flipping the Kookoo

Usually talking, all kookoos are made by beating many eggs, including quantity of finely chopped uncooked or cooked mix-ins, and pan-frying the combination in a sauté pan or skillet till agency on the underside and on the edges, however nonetheless a bit runny within the heart and high. The partially cooked kookoo is then flipped (in a single piece or in manageable segments) to cook dinner the opposite facet. Since either side of the kookoo are involved with the new floor of the pan, a scrumptious, very skinny, golden pores and skin is shaped on either side of the kookoo. 

The one semi-tricky a part of making kookoos is flipping the partially cooked egg combination. For these much less skilled, flipping the big spherical kookoo in a single fluid swoop could seem to be a frightening process. To assist with this, I’ve given choices for flipping it, and no matter which flipping technique I take advantage of to make sure the kookoo flips simply, I at all times mud off my hardly ever used nonstick skillet for making kookoo so it releases simply from the pan.

The primary technique is predicated on the oldest detailed recipe for kookoo from a Persian cookbook printed round 1520 describing this process: It directs the cook dinner to chop the partially cooked kookoo into segments (usually 4 quarters) and flip every individually. That is the most typical (in addition to best and most secure) flipping technique amongst Persian residence cooks and is in line with my very own childhood recollections watching members of the family making kookoos. 

The second technique, which is a bit difficult and extra dangerous than the primary, is to flip all the partially cooked kookoo in a single piece. No, I don’t imply to flip it into the air with a single flick of the wrist after which attempt to catch it again within the skillet. It’s too heavy, and the center of it’s too runny for such TV present motion. You’d find yourself with splattered egg mess throughout your kitchen ground.

To flip the kookoo in a single piece, as soon as the eggs are partially cooked however the center continues to be a smooth and runny, work over the sink (in case something is dropped) and maintain the skillet with one hand, and switch a big plate (or another heatproof vessel such a baking sheet or heatproof reducing board) on high of the skillet. Put a dish towel on high of the plate, place your hand on high of the dishtowel, and, in a single fast movement, invert the skillet so the kookoo falls into the plate. Return the now empty skillet again to the stovetop, add one other tablespoon of butter or oil to the skillet, and punctiliously slide the kookoo from the plate again into the skillet to proceed the cooking course of.

If you’re fortunate sufficient to have two skillets roughly the identical dimension, it’s also possible to flip the kookoo into the second skillet: When it’s time to flip the kookoo, evenly unfold the one tablespoon of butter or oil within the second skillet. Take the skillet that has the partially cooked kookoo over to a sink, flip over the second skillet on high of it. Put a dish towel on high of the second skillet, place your hand on high of the dishtowel, and, in a single fast movement, invert the primary skillet inflicting the kookoo to fall into the second skillet. Proceed the cooking course of with the partially cooked kookoo within the second skillet.

As soon as you’ve got gotten your kookoo flipped, the arduous work is finished, and all that is left after it finishes cooking is to slice, serve, and luxuriate in!

Tips on how to Serve Kookoo-Sabzi

Since most frequently kookoo-sabzi (and all different sorts of Persian kookoo) is made in a spherical frying pan, it’s usually served in wedges. Wedges of kookoo-sabzi (and all different sorts of Persian Kookoos) might be served as a starter or a facet dish. It will possibly additionally represent the principle part of a meal when accompanied with, for instance, a bowl of Persian yogurt with cucumber dish, mast-o-khiar, a plate of contemporary herbs, and a few flat bread. 

Kookoos are additionally common as an accompaniment for a rice-based meal. Actually, the oldest kookoo-sabzi recipe from the sixteenth century suggests or not it’s served together with conventional Persian steamed rice, chelow. 

Persians adore kookoo-sabzi sandwiches, historically constructed with Persian bolki bread, which may simply be substituted with any available roll you want. For the most effective expertise, strive a crusty Vietnamese banh mi roll. Hero rolls, ciabatta, baguettes, or batons additionally work properly. To assemble your excellent kookoo-sabzi sandwich: Slit your chosen bread roll open. Slather the within with butter and your most popular spicy mustard. Fill the sandwich with a number of items of chilly kookoo-sabzi. Add thinly sliced tomatoes and dill pickle strips. For an additional textural dimension, add a number of walnut halves, or unfold a teaspoon of dried barberries on the within of the bread for additional tanginess.