We’ve teamed up with Wisconsin Cheese for an interview mini-series known as Meet the Makers, that includes a sampling of the state’s best cheesemakers and their award-winning creations.
While you develop up in a household that owns a enterprise, there are sometimes two outcomes with regards to your future: you both run so far as you may within the different course and by no means look again, otherwise you fall in keeping with the generations that got here earlier than you and finally take the reins. After all, each paths have advantage, particularly when there’s scrumptious food concerned.
Joey Widmer is one such household businessman. He adopted in his father Joe Widmer’s footsteps, and that’s a very good factor—that’s as a result of his household enterprise, Widmer’s Cheese Cellars, includes making Wisconsin’s best Brick and Colby cheeses. As a fourth-generation cheesemaker, Joey is not any stranger to early mornings and guide labor, nevertheless it wasn’t all the time clear that cheese can be his path. I sat down with him to study extra about his household’s dairy-filled historical past and the way he landed in the identical place his father, grandfather, and great-grandfather occupied earlier than him.
This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.
MADISON TRAPKIN: Are you able to inform me who you’re and what you do?
JOEY WIDMER: I’m Joey Widmer and I am a fourth-generation cheesemaker. I have been making cheese since I used to be about 12 years previous right here at Widmer’s, born and raised above the cheese manufacturing facility.
That’s a whole lot of generations of cheesemaking! What does Wisconsin’s cheesemaking group imply to you?
The Wisconsin cheese making group means so much to me—the individuals are so pleasant and accommodating. It is not like we’re actually aggressive towards one another. All of us have totally different merchandise that we provide and convey to {the marketplace}, and you’ll talk so much with the opposite cheesemakers and bounce concepts off of them.
Widmer’s affords a whole lot of cheeses as of late, however it began with Brick. How did that cheese come to be?
Brick cheese was invented in 1877 by a Swiss immigrant named John Jossi and the explanation they name it brick cheese is as a result of they really use a brick to press the curds right into a block.
Picture by Dusan Harminc
I guess lots of people suppose it’s named for the form of the cheese fairly than the cheesemaking course of.
It’s an effective way to make cheese. When my great-grandfather—he is additionally a Swiss immigrant immigrant—came visiting, he purchased our manufacturing facility in 1922. He began making nice cheese in our plant and [brick] was the primary cheese that he made. He used the identical strategies that John Jossi used with the bricks, and he began with washed-rind brick cheese…[that’s] a European-style cheese [with] a stronger taste and aroma. For that cheese, we put it in a room and we wash it day by day with the tradition micro organism that offers it the floor rind. He realized that not everyone likes a powerful, pungent type of cheese, so then he got here up with a light brick, [which is] the identical cheese nevertheless it has annatto coloring and we do not add the tradition micro organism and wash it so it would not get that robust, pungent taste or aroma.
So how precisely do the bricks come into play?
You really use a brick to press the curd collectively and [into] roughly a five-pound block.
Very cool. What number of bricks does Widmer’s have?
Now we have about 450 bricks right here on premises, and people are the unique bricks that my grandfather used. Some have been taken out of circulation resulting from put on and tear, however most of them are the unique kind of baker’s bricks derived from a plant out of Ohio. There’s a whole lot of cleansing that has to enter sustaining the bricks, so it’s totally labor intensive to make it that means. We’re the one ones that I do know of which might be really utilizing a brick for urgent.
Do you retain utilizing them to stay to custom or is there another excuse?
Sure, we’re making an attempt to stay to our conventional strategies of cheesemaking as a lot as doable. All people else is form of going automated and breaking away from that custom, however we really feel that our area of interest is to stay to conventional strategies as a lot as doable and protect the historical past.
Picture by Dusan Harminc
You’re a fourth-generation cheesemaker—did you all the time know your path would result in cheese?
I did not all the time know that I needed to make cheese. I noticed a number of the struggles that my dad went by and in a way [that] form of scared me, however on the similar time, he took a whole lot of pleasure in what he did and I spotted that something worthwhile in life goes to be difficult.
In some ways you’ve stayed true to custom by protecting the household enterprise alive and sticking to sure manufacturing strategies, however you’ve additionally innovated alongside the way in which—are you able to inform me about this evolution at Widmer’s?
My grandpa did begin with the washed-rind cheese, however a technique that he adopted the palate of different clients is he got here up with the delicate brick cheese that was simply the delicate, creamy model of the unique kind of brick cheese. Now we additionally supply totally different taste varieties [of Brick] like Jalapeno Pepper and Caraway Seed. My great-grandfather additionally began making cheddar as a result of cheddar was so universally recognized all through Wisconsin. As we noticed an increasing number of cheeses being developed with totally different cultures and taste components, we determined so as to add to our Wisconsin Originals. Within the late 2000, I consider 2019, my dad and I got here up with Matterhorn Alpine Cheddar, which is our authentic cheddar recipe, however then we added alpine cultures to that. It ended up being a extremely good cheese and it really received a primary place finest of sophistication in the USA cheese contest final yr within the cheddar class, aged six months to a yr.
Simply this previous yr, we began making a Butterkäse, [which] form of performs upon my household’s heritage of being from Switzerland. It is a cheese that was invented on the German-Swiss border within the 1870s, and it has the same course of to our brick course of, however simply totally different cultures. So these are a number of the ways in which we have innovated simply, , sticking to custom, but additionally developing with different cheeses just like the Butterkäse and Matterhorn.
What does the longer term appear to be for Widmer’s?
I do not know what the longer term appears like precisely for Widmer’s, however I do know that we wish to keep true to what we’re doing at the moment—producing conventional cheeses in a conventional method and utilizing conventional recipes that have been handed down for 100 years [across] 4 generations. I really feel like after I stand up, I am enthusiastic about going to work and beginning my day and attending to create an excellent cheese product and figuring out that in Wisconsin there is a group of dairy farmers and cheesemakers which might be additionally beginning their day at 3 or 4 a.m. Understanding you are not the one one getting up that early and being part of that arduous working group of people, I feel that is necessary and it makes you need to stand up day by day and do your job to the perfect of your potential with enjoyment.
What’s your favourite taste of Widmer’s Cheese? Inform us within the feedback under!
Our pals at Wisconsin Cheese are dedicated to showcasing all of the superb cheeses the state has to supply—and there is a whole lot of them. Wisconsin has extra flavors, varieties, and kinds of cheese than wherever else on the planet. From Italian classics like Parmesan and ricotta to Wisconsin Originals like Colby and Brick, this cheese-obsessed state has a little bit one thing for everybody. Discover out extra about Wisconsin Cheese by visiting their site.
